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Riesling Clos Ste-Hune, Trimbach 1975
It was a hard choice as to the greatest dry Riesling vintage of all time (1990, 1983, 1979, 1976...) but there's no doubt as to the top producer - Trimbach. The 1975 Clos Ste-Hune can still be found at specialist retailers and occasionally in the auction room, but true connoisseurs will insist their bottles came direct from Ribeauville.

Riesling Grand Cru Hengst, Vendange Tardive, Josmeyer 1995
'Not at all sweet, but not fully fermented either, this is my Riesling of the moment to drool over,' says Tom Stevenson. 'It's absolute perfection when partnered with a tatin of cherry tomatoes served with crème fraiche.

Tokay-Pinot Gris, Clos Jebsal, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 1997
To many lovers of delicate, fruity white wines, Zind-Humbrecht is the ultimate Alsace estate. the wines are powerful and rich, nowhere better demonstrated than in this Pinot Gris.





Champagne



Krug 1990
To be honest, we could have included just about any Krug grande cuvée with five or more years' bottle age. 'A vintage Krug is the standard by which all other vintage Champagnes are tasted,' says Robert Juhlin. The recently released 1990 is arguably its best ever. 'Big-bodied, creamy and delicious,' says Norm Roby.

Pol Roger Brut Vintage 1995
The Champagne house founded in 1849 is arguably the most consistent of all. Winston Churchill's favourite, the top choice for Steven Spurrier is the 1995 - soft, elegant, yet ripe.

Moet et Chandon Cuvee Dom Perignon 1988

Moet & Chandon's legendary luxury cuvée honouring the famous monk was launched in 1936. The 1988 is 'as clear as the purest diamond', according to wine writer Richard Juhlin. 'It has toast, coffee beans and orange fruit on the nose, and clear, sharp fruit and nuts on the palate.' One for the cellar; it will be even better in a decade.
Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Francaises 1996
This 100% Pinot Noir Champagne is extremely rare and is 'simply the greatest Champagne of the moment,' reckons Tom Stevenson. Made from 0.6ha of ungrafted, pre-phylloxera vines.
Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 1982
Made from a 5.5ha vineyard acquired by founder Pierre Philipponat in 1935, the Clos des Goisses is the top wine of the house and one of the few walled vineyards, or 'clos', in the region.
Moet et Chandon Cuvee Dom Perignon 1990
If you can't wait for the 1988 to reach its peak, try a magnum of the 1990. According to Stevenson, the standard 75cl bottle of 1990 can show traces of greenness, but in magnum, it has a 'fabulous purity of ripe fruit and an immaculate mousse'.
Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve, Mis en Cave 1997 NV
In 1857, Charles-Camille Heidsieck went to the United States. He became so popular the Americans called him 'Champagne Charlie'. The rest is history. 'The highest consistency, top-quality Champagne for everyday drinking,' says Stevenson.
Louis Roederer Cristal 1979
In 1876, Tsar Alexander II of Russia made a special order for an ultra-rich Champagne, bottles in clear glass. Since then, Roederer has never had a problem selling its Cristal, with today's prime customers tending to be US pop icons. According to Michael Broadbent, the 1979 is 'perfectly mature' and 'superb in every way'


Loire

Anjou, Moulin Touchais 1959
Savennieres, Clos du Papillon, Domaine des Baumard 1996
'Wonderfully fragrant and aromatic nose, enormous complexity on the palate,' says John Radford. 'Delicous, fresh and perfectly balanced.'


Rhone

Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvee des Cadettes, Chateau la Nerthe 1998
A £60 bottle from the imposing Chateauneuf estate.
Condrieu, Coteau de Chery, Andre Perret 2001
The only wine to feature the rare, but increasingly popular Viognier grape.
Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Chateau Rayas 1989
Full of 'soft, velvety truffles, mushrooms and spice', says Ronan Sayburn of this exemplary Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
Cornas, Auguste Clape 1995
Hermitage, la Chapelle, Paul Jaboulet Aine 1983
Cote-Rotie, la Landonne, E Guigal 1983
Guigal ages its single-vineyard Cote-Roti for 42 months in new oak. But it's worth the wait, says James Lawther. 'It's a truly noble wine, full of power and vigour with a sumptuous bouquet that expresses the complexity of age and still lively quality of the fruit.'
Hermitage Blanc, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave 1978
When it comes to historic French estates, they don't come much better than Chave, whose family has been in business since 1481. Although mainly red producers, the family owns 5ha of white vines. This Rousanne-Marsanne blend, known for its apple and quince flavours, gets more opulent with time.
Hermitage, la Sizeranne, M Chapoutier 1989
The power of this Hermitage is such, that years after he first tried it, Norm Roby can vividly recall the 'darker than dark hue, with herbs, minerals, and spices packed into an immense frame'.
Cote-Rotie, la Mouline, E Guigal 1999


Regional France

Bandol, Moulin des Costes, Charriage, Domaine Bunan 1998
This small coastal region in Provence produces arguably Provence's best wines. Predominantly tannic, they are mainly made from Mourvèdre and count Andrew Jefford as a big fan.
Madiran, Prestige, Chateau Montus 1985
In the early 1980s, Madiran was barely known as a wine region. One man changed that - Alain Brumont, of Bouscassé. 'In 1989 I met Brumont and was impressed,' says Jim Budd. 'This wine was confirm!ation of this promise. Made from 100% Tannat, it was full on the palate with lovely texture and great length.' Montus' 2000 La Tyre was also nominated


Italy

Sassicaia, Tenuta San Guido 1985
Only a few bottles of this magical wine are still in circulation. It is hard to think of anything in Italy to beat it. 'Still in perfect form, this is sheer unequivocal greatness,' reckons Richard Baudains.
Amarone della Valpolicella, Dal Forno Romano 1997
An amazing blockbuster. 'Super concentrated black fruits, liquorice, powerful and muscular weight in the mouth,' says top sommelier Ronan Sayburn.
Brunello di Montalcino, Il Paradiso 1990
Barbaresco, Sori Tildin, Gaja 1982
Ornellaia, Tenuta dell'Ornellaia 1995
In a relatively short period of time, the Antinori family, joined latterly by the Mondavis, have established a cult Bordeaux blend in a part of Tuscany better known for Sangiovese. Such is the lure of the Ornellaia name today that its wine has been the sunject of several fraud scandals.
Franciacorta, Cuvee Annamaria Clementi, Ca'Del Bosco 1990
'The best ever vintage of Maurizio Zanella's Chardonnay-Pinot Bianco-Pinot Nero cuvée, this has everything that you could wish for in a classic sparkling wine: complextity, texture, length, and bags of energy,' says Richard Baudains.
Alto Adige, Terlano Classico, Cantina Terlano 1979
'Bottles from the legendary reserves of this Alto Adige winery periodically emerge to demonstrate their defiance of the ravages of time with incredible arrays of aroma, freshness and vitality. Unforgettable,' proclaims Richard Baudains.
Brunello di Montalcino, Riserva, Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona 1990
'Ciacci may have lost its way in more recent years, but the 1990 Riserva remains one of the few really 'great' Italian wines I've enjoyed,' says Michael Palij MW. 'Divine - a dazzling combination of power and complexity


Germany

Maximin Grunhauser Herrenberg Riesling Auslese, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, von Schubert 1983
This estate was Andrew Jefford's first case buy of great German wine. 'Bought in 1985, it was all drunk by 1992 or so,' he says. 'But I still remember its gossamer grace and dewdrop limpidity. It taught me that, even in wine, less can mean more.'
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Trockenbeerenauslese, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, J J Prum 1976
This Mosel estate - described as 'superlative and legendary' by Hugh Johnson was a popular choice, with votes coming in for the 1990 Prum TBA and 1988 Prum Riesling Auslese.
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Fritz Haag 1976
Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Egon Muller 1976
'Orange tawny; indescribably lovely bouquet and perfect balance of fruit, lime honey and acidity.' So says Michael Broadbent.
Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese, Nahe, Hermann Donnhoff 2001
'The genius of the winemaker Helmut Donnhoff, is other-worldly,' says Howard G Goldberg. 'His flavours bring tears to the eyes. Helmut Donnhoff is the current owner of the estate


Australia

Henschke Hill of Grace 1998
I don't know if I have ever tasted a better young Shiraz from Australia,' says Nick Adams MW, 'While it is infanticide to drink it now, it is seductive. It has remarkable primary fruit flavours and depth, but also a sense of orign and terroir. It well develop for at least another 20 years.
Seppelts, Riesling, Eden Valley 1982
Lindemans, Bin 1590, Hunter Valley 1959
One of the oldest wineries in Australia and known as a pioneer of new style wines, the older bin wines reveal a much more classic tone, appreciated by Len Evans among others.


North America

Ridge Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains 1991
Nick Adams MW rates this as one of the greatest and most accessible Cabernet-Merlot blends he has ever tasted from the New World. 'There is a silkiness and texture which is almost ethereal, and an intensity of fruit and minerality which marks out all world-class wines,' he says.
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cask 23, Stags Leap 1985
When this wine first appeared, long before cult Cabernets, Helen Turley, and ultra-ripe fruit bombs, it went off the charts. Unlike many of California's great wines, it is now at its peak.
Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon, Martha's Vineyard, Napa Valley 1974
'On my 50th birthday,' Howard G Goldberg recalls, 'Pat Cetta gave me this Cabernet. King of the Schmoozers, Pat had a heart bigger than the Ritz. The minty, autumnal red sent my dry-aged beef and hash brownies heavenward


Spain

Ribera del Duero, Pingus, Dominio de Pingus 2000
This iconic estate in the Ribera del Duero is run by Danish winemaker Peter Sisseck. Its flagship wine is 100% Tinto Fino aged in French oak for up to 20 months.
Vega Sicilia, Unico 1964
Vega Sicilia's 'exclusive' reputation was formed in 1915, when it was only obtainable if one was a friend of the family. The 1964 has enormous complexity and deep, dark fruit. 'Still on the young side, but opening up beautifully,' says John Radford, and thus trumping the 1970 Unico


Hungary

Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos, Szt Tamas, Royal Tokaji Wine Company 1993
This first growth Tokaji from the wonderful 1993 vintage is a favourite of Beverley Blanning MW. 'The incredibly rich, sweet palate combines smooth, cool, mushroomy flavours and zesty, orange marmalade fruit,' she says. 'It is full, with deliciously refreshing acidity and endless length.'
Tokaji Aszu Essencia, Crown Estates 1973


Austria

Emmerich Knoll, Gruner Veltliner, Smaragd, Wachau 1995


New Zealand

Ata Rangi, Pinot Noir, Martinborough 1996


Port/Fortfied

Cossart Gordon, Bual 1914
'With a haunting perfume of caramel and crystallised violets, this is a perfectly effortless harmony of gently sweet yet intensely-concentrated fruit, taut defining acidity, absoute clarity of flavours, silky texture and, above all, a seemingly inexhaustible persistence of scent,' says Michael Schuster. 'Utterly ravishing.'
Graham 1945
1945 is an amazingly consistent and luscious vintage. 'Like heavenly treacle and yet still full of red fruits,' says Serena Sutcliffe of this vintage port. 'Unsurpassable.'
Taylor 1948
'One of the finest ports ever made: still deep, intense; magnificently evolved bouquet; sweet of course; exquisite and lingering,' writes Michael Broadbent. Also highly rated: 1935 and 1927.
Fonseca 1927
Along with the other Fonseca standout vintage of 1977, this is such a good vintage port, reckons Norm Roby, that it shouldn't be drunk with cheese or a cigar. 'It's a wine to savour on its own.'
Quinta do Noval Nacional 1931
H M Borges, Terrantez, Madeira 1862
'Rare grape, great vintage. Unquestionably the most magnificent of the many old vintages I have tasted and, once opened, would remain drinkable for days, even months,' says Michael Broadbent. Warm amber, over-whelming, lingering bouquet, great concentration and persistence.'
Henriques & Henriques, Malmsey 1795
'Everything good old Madeira should be,' writes John Radford, 'with the richness teased out by matuarity, an elegant perfume and a palate which seemed to go on for ever. One of only two wines in my life which I have marked 20/20.'
Emilio Lustau, Manuel Cuevas Jurado, Manzanilla Amontillada NV
John Radford's favourite sherry has 'delicous hazelnuts on the nose, delicate butterscotch and a nutty, savoury palate. Completely dry'.

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